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Позже ([time]01 Июня, 2014, 08:26[/time]) добавлено:
Guide to drag racing in an automatic (v.1)
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Guide to drag racing in an automatic (v.1)
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A lot of people seem to ask about this, so I wrote a little guide. For entertainment purposes only. Feel free to reply with any corrections/modifications/comments/whatever. Guide to Racing in an Automatic 7th Gen Civic, version 1.1 *I assume no liability for anything you do to, for, or with your car.* Alright, first things first. The following is the available choices of gears in our cars. P. Park. Put it here when you're not driving. R. Reverse. You go backwards. N. Neutral. The engine revs, but the power does not go to the wheels. Like pressing the clutch on a manual. D. Normal drive. You get 4 gears plus an overdrive, so it's pretty much like 5 gears. D3. Drive, except it won't go any higher than 3rd gear. Useful if you don't want to shift into 4th and overdrive. Keeps the rpms higher when you're driving at like 30-40mph, which means you get more instant response when you press the gas down farther, as opposed to if you were in D going the same speed. 2. Second gear only. This option puts you in second gear. It does not start you in one, nor can you get into first gear if you have2 selected. If you are racing it is not a good idea to start in 2, because you will get very little power off the line. Now, why did I write that? Because people seem to think that our cars have things like 1, D2, 3, and other weird stuff that I've heard. Here is the trick to knowing what a gear will do. If it is just a number, you will stay in that gear. If there is a "D" in front of it, you have 1, 2, n up until that number. Now that we understand how our Automatic Transmission gears work, let's discuss drag racing techniques. Automatic transmissions know when to shift based on your speed, how far the gas is depressed, and to a lesser extent, rpms. For example, if you start from a stop and press the gas down half way, it might shift from first to second at 3500rpms. If you start from a stop and floor it, it will shift just before redline. So what's the best way to drag race in an auto as far as gears go? You can put it in D or D3. D3 is ok because if it's a 1/4 mile race, the race will end before you top out 3rd gear so don't worry about it. So, you've got it in D or D3, and you floor it. If you leave the gas all the way down, it will shift at redline. Do not worry about shifting it manually. Sure, after it switches to 2nd gear you could put it in 2, and you could run it past redline, but why would you want to do that? 1. You lose power past redline. Higher rpms does not necessarily mean more hp and more torque. 2. You greatly increase the chance of destroying your engine if you run it past redline. 3. If you hit the fuel cutoff, you will slow down due to restricted fuel. So, like I said, leave it in D or D3. Now that you know what to do with the gears, let's look at how to launch in an automatic. Neutral Drop. This is not your friend. Put the car in neutral and rev the engine to the
desired rpm level. Keep your foot on the gas and push it into D. Say goodbye to your transmission. Brake Torque. Not the best thing you can do to your car, but much better for it than neutral dropping. Keep it in D or D3, hold the brake in with the left foot. Press the gas with your right foot until the desired rpm level. When the light changes or you get the signal to go or whatever, come off the brake and floor it. I don't know what the best rpm level to do this is, but just remember the higher you go and the longer you hold it, the more damage you're doing to your brakes and torque convertor. Finally, there are a few other things you should know. Minimize the battery drain. Since you are racing, you need to be able to get the most power out of your car that is possible. This means you need to turn off everything that isn't vital to the engine running. Turn off your defroster, air recirculator, stereo, and most importantly your A/C. A/C is a huge drain on power, to the extent where if you floor it with your A/C on and then turn it off you will feel a boost when you turn it off. Leaving your stereo off not only drains less power, but also allows you to hear your engine better. If you are racing in the day, turn off your headlights. Turn off your foglights if you have them, and turn off anything else aftermarket that you may have installed that drains the battery. (thanks to Cyclosporine for reminding me to include this section). Let your car warm up. On the left of your console, there is a water temp gauge. When you first start your car it's at the bottom, and after a few minutes it goes up to the middle. It's generally not a good idea to take your engine into high rpms until this needle is in the middle and your engine has had a chance to warm up. If this ever goes more than a little bit above the middle, which is not likely, you shouldn't drive until your engine has a chance to cool down, and if it happens frequently you should take your car in to be looked at. Minimize your car's weight. This one is obviously easier to implement if you know about the race ahead of time. Lighter cars are obviously easier to accelerate. So, little things you can do that don't require making a huge change or investment are racing with 1/4 tank of gas or less, and taking your spare tire out of the trunk. But make sure you have enough gas to get home, and have a friend come with you to carry your spare in case you end up needing it. Also, if you have huge subs or something in the trunk you should take them out before you go to the track, because they are just extra weight, and you shouldn't have your stereo on during a race anyway.
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Позже ([time]01 Июня, 2014, 08:27[/time]) добавлено:
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IHI VF Turbo and TDO4L
Автор Ayib Gino, написано 16 октября 2012 г. в 16:22
IHI VF SeriesThe numbering on both the VF turbos are for reference purposes and not necessarily indicative of its 'performance'. On GC8/GF8 WRX STi, the VF turbos have gone 'smaller' from VF22 to 23, 24, 28, 29 while the release of the New Age STi GDB saw the introduction of a new breed of VF turbos with a bigger compressor wheel namely, VF30, VF34, VF35 for example. The previous VF turbos (VF22,23,24,28,29) have been ball bearing cored while the later ones (VF30, VF35) are Divided Thrust Bearing type core, with the VF34 being a Ball Bearing.
IHI VF22(455cfm at 18.0psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On)The VF22 has the largest potential for peak horsepower. In other words, in the IHI model range, the VF 22 supports the highest boost levels. With its significantly increased turbine housing, the VF22 turbo is capable of producing upwards of 310 whp* on an EJ20. The downside of this turbo is the older center cartridge design and larger compressor housing, which makes for slower spool up but more top-end than the other VF series turbos. This turbo is the best choice for those who are looking for loads of top end power. The top end power however, does not come without a cost. The VF22 spools significantly slower than the rest of the IHI models due to the larger P20 exhaust housing and is much less suited for daily driving than some of the other models. Although the largest VF series turbo, the VF22 is not quite optimal for stroked engines or those who wish to run more than 20PSI of boost. The VF22's compressor is rated at 35 lbs/minute. The VF22 was designed with the EJ20 in mind but because it has the biggest turbine in the IHI family it can be use on the EJ25 with a slight increase in performance. The VF22 is good for around a realistic 300 to 315 WHP on a 2.0L.The IHI VF-22 turbo is the largest of the VF-series turbos.
IHI VF34(440cfm at 18psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On)The VF34 is nearly identical to the VF30, with the same exhaust housing and compressor. However the VF34 goes back to the ball bearing design, and in doing so achieves full boost approximately 500RPM sooner than the comparable VF30. The VF34 is the most recent IHI design and as such costs slightly more than its counterpart. Top end performance and maximum output are identical to the 30. The VF34's compressor is rated at 35 lbs/minute but the turbo suffers from the same turbine restrictions found with the VF30. The VF34 was designed with the EJ20 in mind and will not have the same performance on an EJ25. The VF34 is good for around a realistic 290 to 305 WHP on a 2.0L.
IHI VF30(435cfm at 18psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On)The VF30 delivers a very wide increase in torque over the standard TD-series turbos. It is important to note that the VF30 is not a roller bearing turbo. The VF30 is commonly considered the best bang for the buck turbo in the IHI VF series line. A relatively new model the VF30 features the same exhaust housing as the VF24, P18, but a larger compressor side similar to the VF22. The combination of these two parts results in increased output potential without the lag associated with the VF22. Although it doesn't offer the top end supremacy of the VF22, the VF30 is a great compromise between these unit and the quicker spooling models. The VF30's compressor wheel is rated at 35 lbs/minute, because the P18 turbine is used to help spool up the VF30's turbine creates a lot of back pressure which hurt top-end performance. The VF30 was designed with the EJ20 in mind and will not have the same performance on an EJ25. The VF30 is good for around a realistic 290 to 305 WHP on a 2.0L. The VF30 is not ball-bearing. It uses much more advanced aerodynamics than the VF22/23/24. It should spool much faster than the VF22/23/24, but flow less than the VF22, closer to a VF23.
IHI VF39(435cfm, 250-325whp, Bolt-On)The VF39 is a single scroll turbo used on USDM STI and latest 2.5L STIs released internationally. Smaller in output capacity than VF30, VF34 and VF22, the VF39's compressor is rated at the same 35 lbs/minute but the very small P18 turbine really chokes the 2.5L engine. In stock form the EJ25 with the VF39 has very little lag and that was the goal Subaru was looking for with the base package. The VF39 is good for around a realistic 285 to 300 WHP installed on a 2.0L. I would not recommend a VF series turbo to anyone looking to upgrade their STI but if you plan on keeping the VF39 you can expect to make between 300 to 330 WHP. If you are considering the VF39, we highly suggest checking out the VF43 as it is a better setup in the same class.
IHI VF43(435cfm, 250-325whp, Bolt-On)The IHI VF43 comes stock on the 2007 STi. It has almost identical features of the VF39 with a thrust bearing and a P18 exhaust housing, but the wastegate opening is larger to relieve boost creep issues. . It can be found on both base STI's and STI Limited's. The VF43 utilizes a thrust bearing design and the P18 exhaust housing. The difference between the VF43 and the VF39 used previously on STI's is the size of the wastegate. The VF43 has a larger wastegate designed to reduce boost creep issues.Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 3000-3500rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles that utilize this turbo aftermarket.
IHI VF36(430cfm, 250-325whp, Modification Required)This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the JDM V8-V9 Subaru Impreza WRX STI Spec-C Type RA. The VF36 is a twin-scroll turbocharger that utilizes a ball bearing design, a P25 exhaust housing, and Titanium (possibly TiAl?) compressor wheel for improved spool. It is essentially a fast spooling VF34.Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2800-3300rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles.
IHI VF37(430cfm, 250-325whp, Modification Required)This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the JDM V8-V9 Subaru Impreza WRX STI. The VF37 is a twin-scroll turbocharger that utilizes a thrust bearing design and a P25 exhaust housing. It is essentially a fast spooling VF30.Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2800-3300rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles.
IHI VF35(425cfm, 250-325whp, Bolt-On)This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the JDM Subaru Impreza WRX. The VF35 is similar to the VF34. It utilizes the same compressor housing and the same compressor inducer size. The differences are in the divided thrust-bearing design and the P15 exhaust housing. This allows the VF35 to spool slightly quicker than the VF34 at the cost of less top-end performance.Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2800-3300rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles.
IHI VF23(425cfm at 18psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On)This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the JDM Subaru Impreza WRX STi 22b. The VF23 is a ball bearing turbocharger that utilizes the P20 exhaust housing like the VF22. This housing is mated with the smaller compressor housing of the VF24 for fast response and excellent low and mid-range performance. It does not have the same top end power of the VF22, but spools up slightly quicker.Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2800-3300rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles.
IHI VF24(410cfm at 18psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On)This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the JDM V4 Subaru Impreza WRX STi. This turbo shares its compressor housing with the VF23, however, this housing is mated with a smaller (P18) exhaust side. The smaller characteristics of this turbo allow it to provide ample bottom end power and quick spool. This turbo is very popular for Impreza's with automatic transmissions and Group-N rally cars.Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2800-3300rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles.
IHI VF29(410cfm at 18psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On)This is the standard equipment turbocharger on the JDM V6 Subaru Impreza WRX STi. The VF29 is nearly identical to the VF24, with the same compressor and exhaust housings. However, the compressor wheel in the VF29 has been changed slightly. The changes made to the compressor wheel in this model are generally viewed as improvements, and as such, this unit is typically chosen over the VF24. Has a different location for the pressure hose on the wastegate actuator.Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2900-3300rpms. 2002-2005 WRX owners will need fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management is highly recommended for all vehicles.
Stock WRX TD04Mitsubishi TD04L-13T(390cfm at 14.7psi, 200-275whp, Bolt-On)This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the Subaru Impreza WRX. It can be found on all the current model years from 2002-2007.Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 2500-3000rpms
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Позже ([time]01 Июня, 2014, 08:28[/time]) добавлено:
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engine spec
Автор TOm MohdTariq AriffinAli, написано 19 сентябрь 2012 г. в 3:34
Engine Model : EJ-VE
Engine Type : WATER COOLING IN-LINE 3-CYLINDER DOHC 12 VALVES
Bore and stroke : 72.0MM * 81.0MM
Engine capacity : 989CC
The compression ratio : 10.0
Fuel Supply : EFI (ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED FUEL INJECTION)
Maximum power hp. / Rpm. : 64PS (47KW) / 6000RPM
Maximum torque : 9.6KG-M (94N-M) / 3600RPM
Fuel : UNLEADED REGULAR GASOLINE
Fuel consumption (economy km / 1 liter) : 17.4KM/LITER
Weight : 850KG (Storia cx)
Engine Model : K3-VE
Engine Type : WATER COOLING IN-LINE 4-CYLINDER DOHC 16 VALVES
Bore and stroke : 72.0MM * 79.7MM
Engine capacity : 1297CC
The compression ratio : 10.0
Fuel Supply : EFI (ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED FUEL INJECTION)
Maximum power hp. / Rpm. : 90PS (66KW) / 6000RPM
Maximum torque : 12.6KG-M (124N-M) / 3200RPM
Fuel : UNLEADED REGULAR GASOLINE
Fuel consumption (economy km / 1 liter) : 19.4KM/LITER
Weight : 910KG (YRV na)
Engine Model : K3-VE2
Engine Type : WATER COOLING IN-LINE 4-CYLINDER DOHC 16 VALVES
Bore and stroke : 72.0MM * 79.7MM
Engine capacity : 1297CC
The compression ratio : 11.0
Fuel Supply : EFI (ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED FUEL INJECTION)
Maximum power hp. / Rpm. : 110PS (81KW) / 7000RPM
Maximum torque : 12.8KG-M (126N-M) / 4400RPM
Fuel : UNLEADED PREMIUM GASOLINE
Fuel consumption (economy km / 1 liter) : 16.6KM/LITER
Weight : 870KG (Storia touring)
Engine Model : K3-VET
Engine Type : WATER COOLING IN-LINE 4-CYLINDER DOHC 16 VALVES IC TURBO
Bore and stroke : 72.0MM * 79.7MM
Engine capacity : 1297CC
The compression ratio : 8.5
Fuel Supply : EFI (ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED FUEL INJECTION)
Maximum power hp. / Rpm. : 140PS (103KW) / 6400RPM
Maximum torque : 18.0KG-M (177N-M) / 3200RPM
Fuel : UNLEADED REGULAR GASOLINE
Fuel consumption (economy km / 1 liter) : 15.6KM/LITER
Weight : 940KG (YRV turbo)
*HP tertera tuh leh consider sbnrnyer "bHP" based on dyno sheet sdiri, pling hampir dgn spec tertera dlm "bHP" (convert dlm wHP myb leh try tolak 20% kot)
**untuk rujukan sahaja.. leh tgk beza hasil upgrade yg tuan2 dh buat dari spec asal.. info mungkin ade yg tidak tepat.. harap maklong
***calculator tuk convert bHP (at the Crank) ke wHP (at the wheels)
http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator4.php[/spoiler]
Позже (01/06/14) добавлено:
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Steps yang aku lalui utk kacuk vf33 (subaru legacy) + vq41 (yrv).
Setup ori top mount intercooler & external wastegate.
1. Cabut actuator, clamp & bontot vf33
2. Tanggalkan turbo yrv & cabut bontot
3. Hantar lay bontot yrv utk bagi ruang kipas vf33, pastikan kipas leh jalan tak sangkut
4. Buka housing compressor vf33, ada 5 hex screw, bahagian belakang 4 hex screw
5. Marking & tebuk lubang baru utk pusing compressor
6. Install balik housing compressor housing pakai bolt + nut baru
7. Install vf33 + bontot yrv yang dah lay tu
8. Install samco elbow + pipe 2" baru utk sambung ke intercooler
9. Line minyak hitam & air plug n play balik
Siaap!
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